A
lasting impression
for any visitor to Vietnam is the beauty of Vietnamese women dressed in
their Ao Dais. These
long flowing dress worn over loose-fitting trousers are considered to be
Vietnamese women's national dresses.
Early
versions of the Ao Dai date back to 1744, when Lord Vu Vuong of the
Nguyen Dynasty ordered both men and women to wear an ensemble of trouser
and gown that buttoned down the front. Although popular, men wore it
less often than women, and generally only on ceremonial occasions such
as at weddings and funerals. It took another twenty years before the
next major design change occurred and nearly another two hundred years
before the modern Ao Dai emerged.
The original Ao Dai was loosely
tailored with four panels (Ao Tu Than), two of which were tied in the
back. In 1930, a Vietnamese fashion designer and writer, Cat Tuong,
lengthened the top so it reached the floor. Tuong also fitted the
bodice to the curves of the body and moved the buttons from the front to
an opening along the shoulder and side seam. As a result of these
changes, Ao Dai became a contoured, full-length dress. The dress
splits into a front and back panel from the waist down. During the 1950s
two tailors in Saigon, Tran Kim of Thiet Lap Tailors and Dung of Dung
Tailors, started producing the gowns with raglan sleeves. This created a
diagonal seam running from the collar to the underarm and is the preferred
style today.
There
have many stylish variations in color and collar design in the past four
decades. Most noticeable is the gradual shortening of the gown's length,
such that today, it is usually just below the knee. Variations in the neck
collar, between boat and mandarin style, are common. But more
adventurous alterations such as low scooped necklines, puffed sleeves,
and off-the-shoulder designs are emerging as more women experiment with
fashion. Less rigid control over color and access to new fabrics have
also created dazzling results. Every Ao Dai is custom-made, accounting
for the fit that creates such a flattering look.
It
is hard to think of a more elegant, demure and yet sexy outfit, that
suits Vietnamese women of all ages than Ao Dai.