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Vietnam Airlines has a near-monopoly on domestic flights, which are relatively expensive. Thanks to a new computerized booking system, buying a ticket is fairly painless, although you will have to show your visa and/or passport. It's usually faster to buy a ticket from an airline office rather than a travel agent. The departure tax on domestic flights is d15,000. Ramshackle, slow and hugely overcrowded buses run just about everywhere in the country, at rock-bottom fares. Bus travel is definitely uncomfortable and frustrating, but if you treat it as a social function rather than a means of getting from A to B, you should survive with your sanity intact. Most long-distance buses leave early in the morning, so it's a good idea to buy your ticket the night before. There are express buses, but few are really fast. Count on an average speed of 50 km an hour for a genuine express bus, 35 km an hour for a so-called express bus and 25 km an hour for an ordinary bus. Public minibuses suffer the same drawbacks as public buses. The alternative, used by many foreigners, is to charter a minibus. They cost more but they are much more comfortable. You'll find people taking bookings in popular tourist destinations. Budget hotels and cafes are the best places to start looking. Train travel can be even slower than bus travel, but it is more relaxed and you're likely to have decent legroom. There are several types of train; you definitely don't want a crowded, snail-paced local train. Petty theft can be a problem on trains, especially in budget class. Children throwing things at carriages, everything from rocks to cow dung, is another problem, and you're advised to keep the metal shield on the window in place. Hire cars and drivers are available at reasonable prices. You'll still be stopped by the police to pay all sorts of 'fines,' but at least you'll have a local with you to do the negotiating. The Vietnamese drive on the right-hand side of the road (most of the time). You can hire a motorcycle to drive yourself if you have an International Driver's Permit endorsed for motorcycles. The anarchic traffic is a big hazard, as is the possibility of scams. There have been reports of the renter stealing the bike (the renter has a key to the lock) and charging the customer an outrageous sum as compensation. If you have left your passport as security you won't have much choice but to pay up. Traveling through Vietnam by bicycle is worth considering, though the traffic is still a hazard on highways without wide shoulders. Trains and buses will carry your bike when you want a break. Other than a few ancient and infrequent buses, local transport is by taxi (some metered, some not) or cyclo (pedal-powered conveyances that are cheap and plentiful). The Vietnamese government has announced plans to phase out cyclos in a cosmetic bid to improve Vietnam's image. If you're in a hurry and have nerves of steel, try flagging down any passing motorbike. Many people will be happy to give you a lift for a fee a little higher than the equivalent cyclo fare.
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