The land
Relief
Dominating the landscape of Laos are its inhospitable, forest-covered
mountains, which in the north rise to a maximum elevation
of 9,245 feet (2,818 meters) above sea level at Mount Bia and everywhere
constitute an impediment to travel. The principal range lies along a
northwest-southeast axis and forms part of the Annamese Cordillera (Chaîne
Annamitique), but secondary ranges abound. Three notable landscape
features of the interior of Laos may be mentioned. In the northern
province of Xiangkhoang, the Plain of Jars (Lao: Thông Haihin; the name
derived from large prehistoric stone jars discovered there) consists of
extensive rolling grasslands rather than a true plain and provides a hub
of communications. The central provinces of Bolikhamxay and Khammouan
contain karst landscapes of caverns and severely eroded limestone
pinnacles. Finally, in the south the Bolovens Plateau, at an elevation of
about 3,600 feet, is covered by open woodland and has generally fertile
soil. The only extensive lowlands lie along the eastern bank of the Mekong
River.
Drainage
The general slope of the land in Laos is downhill from east to west,
and all the major rivers--the Tha, Beng, Ou, Ngum, Kading, Bangfai,
Banghiang, and Kong--are tributaries of the Mekong. The Mekong flows
generally southeast and south along and through western Laos and forms its
boundary with Myanmar and most of the border with Thailand. The course of
the river itself is severely constricted by gorges in northern Laos, but,
by the time it reaches Vientiane, its valley broadens and exposes wide
areas to flooding when the river breaches its banks, as it did in August
1960. A few rivers in eastern Laos flow eastward through gaps in the
Annamese Cordillera to reach the Gulf of Tonkin; the most important of
these is the Ma River, which rises in Xiangkhoang province.
Soils
Soils in the floodplains are formed from alluvium deposited by rivers
and are
either sandy or sandy clay with light colors or sandy with gray or yellow
colors; chemically, these are neutral to slightly acidic. Upland soils
derived from crystalline, granitic, schistose, or sandstone parent rocks
generally are more acidic and much less fertile. Southern Laos contains
areas of laterite (leached and iron-bearing) soils, as well as basaltic
soils on the Bolovens Plateau.
Climate
Laos has the typical tropical monsoon climate of the region, though the
mountains provide some variations in temperature. During the rainy season
(May to October), the winds of the southwest monsoon deposit an average
rainfall
of between 50 and 90 inches (1,300 and 2,300 millimeters), with totals
reaching 160 inches on the Bolovens Plateau. The dry season (November to
April) is dominated by the northeast monsoon. Minimum temperatures average
between 60º and 70º F (16º and 21º C) in the cool months of December
through February, increasing to highs of more than 90º F (32º C) in
March and April, just before the start of the rains. In the wet season the
average temperature is 80º F (27º C).
Plant and animal life
Laos has tropical rain forests of broad-leaved evergreens in the north
and monsoon forests of mixed evergreens and deciduous trees in the south.
In the monsoon forest areas the ground is covered with tall, coarse grass
called tranh; the trees are mostly second growth, with an abundance
of bamboo, scrub, and wild banana. The forests support a rich wildlife,
including elephants, gaurs (wild oxen), deer, bears, tigers and leopards,
monkeys, and a large variety of birds.
Settlement patterns
Laos is predominantly rural and agricultural. The numerous isolated
valley communities preserve a variety of different traditions and
dialects. Villages usually are located close to rivers and roads that give
the people access to itinerant traders as well as to each other. Most
villages are laid out around a main street or open area, farmlands being
adjacent to the residential areas. Every village, if it can, has a
Buddhist temple and supports at least one monk. The temple compound
usually includes a public building that serves as a school and a meeting
hall. Village leadership is usually divided, the headman having authority
in secular matters and the monk in religious.
The hill peoples usually are organized on tribal lines and live in
smaller groupings. They are hunters and gatherers of forest products, as
well as farmers, but their practice of shifting cultivation prevents them
from establishing permanent villages. Hill peoples living close to the
lowland areas tend to acquire the languages and cultures of
their neighbors and to engage in limited trade with them; those living at
higher elevations remain unacculturated.
Urban life in Laos is limited mainly to the capital, Vientiane, the
former royal capital, Louangphrabang, and four or five other large towns.
With the exception of Louangphrabang, all are located in the floodplain
area near the Mekong River. Their populations are predominantly Lao, with
smaller groups of Chinese, Vietnamese, and Indians. Compared with the
cities of Thailand, Malaysia, or Vietnam, those of Laos are small and
provincial.